23 May 2011

Two Weeks in Tokyo

After two months in the States, Tess and I have finally made the move to Japan. At the end of April, Brian essentially came over to pick us up. We reunited in Cooperstown, and then spent 10 days saying "hi" to friends and family. We saw Tess's great granny and celebrated my brother's 40th in Brooklyn. Although rushed, it was a fantastic farewell, and I left feeling sad, but enthusiastic about the adventure that lay ahead.

After the 12 hour flight we got a car to our corporate housing in Tokyo. I was immediately struck by how quaint and village-like it felt in our new neighborhood (near Roppongi Hills). The street was buzzing with open air coffeehouses, fruit and veg stands, tiny noodle houses, sushi bars, and yakitori stands. I had braced myself for soaring skyscrapers and unfriendly urban busy-ness, and although the big buildings do exist, this was nothing like what I expected.

The first day or two was a bit of a wash. We managed some grocery shopping, and some strolls through the neighborhood to the swings, but everything else was swept away by jetlag. The flat that Brian had chosen before he came to the States had unfortunately fallen through, so early the first week I was asked to go out with our real estate agent. She showed me three places in this neighborhood (which I already knew I loved - not only for it's village feel, but also for it's expat community, and for Brian's ability to walk to work in under 15 minutes). I could have moved in to any of the three places, but ended up choosing ours for it's proximity to the park and overall layout. We'll be moving in at the end of this week, and I can't wait to start settling in. Living out of suitcases for 2 1/2 months is getting old!

Brian and I are trying our best to get out and see things. So far, we went to the biggest design fair in Asia, explored the crazy shopping area that us "gaijin" (westerners) have seen on films, eaten delicious food, and toasted weiss beer at Tokyo's Oktoberfest (...yes, in May!). English is very rarely spoken, but we are managing. Next week we hope to start language classes, but until then it is a lot of pointing and smiling. I try to buy one mystery food a day, and so far I have found most "pleasantly edible". We are enjoying the amazingly cheap sushi and avoiding the cantaloupes (they average about 17 quid/25 dollars).

Brian feels aftershocks every second or third day, but I have only felt one, and that was yesterday. To me it felt like someone was very gently, and very rhythmically trying to shake me out of bed. It lasted about 20 seconds and, if it had been turbulence on a plane, I don't think it would have warranted the pilot to turn on the fasten seat belt sign. In fact, even our nearly empty, mini hotel-size shampoo bottle didn't topple over. That said, the earthquake was later reported as a 5.8 on the Richter scale, and only 70 miles from Tokyo. It definitely made me a touch anxious, but again, not much more than the background nerves that I get with turbulence. It was cool when it started, but after 10 seconds I really wanted it to stop.

At certain moments this all feels overwhelming, but ironically I am finding the transition easier than my move to London. So far, it seems, that the westerners really look out for one another. I have already had playdates, coffee dates, offers to take me to baby stores, and recommendations for babysitters. Yesterday we had brunch with 5 couples and their kids from all over the world, and tomorrow I am heading out for a girl's night out. We have also befriended a very nice Japanese couple who seem to love chatting in English, and have gone so far out of their way to help us ... including driving us to IKEA, and patiently helping us with four hours of shopping.

It is certainly unfamiliar, and I definitely feel far from home, but there is an overall feeling of warmth and welcomeness. In addition to the expat community, I honestly think the Japanese are happy to have us here ... perhaps even more so after the earthquake and tsunami. So, two weeks in, and I'm feeling really happy.

I hope you all are well. We miss you much!